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Riesling Gaisberg 'Library Vintages' ('98~'02~'04~'06), Hirsch |
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Weingut Hirsch |
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Item Code: |
AWH-084 |
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Appellation: |
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Region: |
Kamptal Kremstal |
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Country: |
Austria |
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Varietal: |
RIESLING |
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Wine Type: |
STILL |
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Vintage: |
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Find previous vintages |
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Wine Information:
Here you’ll get three bottles each of Riesling Gaisberg 1998, 2002, 2004 and 2006.
2006: Oops, I seem to have used a naughty word in my notebook. “Not just stunning nose but
fucking stunning nose,” I seem to have written. Oh dear, that’s just so not me. Tightly packed
mineral and wisteria, molten silver; the palate is almost constricting, crazily tight, ultraviolet;
also leesy, and weirdly also chocolate and jasmine and tarragon; it’s a wild ride of neon and
flower and mineral; it seems to attach jumper-cables from the glass to your palate.
2004: This is a devilishly complex thing; spicy-salty aromas, ferrous and showing some of the
‘04s charred smoky notes; a sizzling spicy palate, thickly juicily mineral—don’t ever let anybody
tell you “mineral” is a euphemism for “unripe,” because this (and hundreds of wines like
it) is about as lavish as wine gets, only its flavor dialect is mineral, not “fruit.” There’s a note
of not-quite-fully-ripe blackberry; the palate really swells and billow and sweetens, reaching a
crescendo of lavish iridescent intesnsity. ++
2002: The 2002 is just screaming with great sizzling depth of mirabelle and raspberry. Hightoned
minerally nose and the palate has the usual sizzling precision and wonderful saltiness.
++
1998: It is astonishing to still be able to get this wine. Want to know why? Because the AUSTRIAN
market was, shall we say, nonplussed by its (almost undetectable) residual sugar! Their
loss is manifestly our gain, for this is an Everest among Austrian Rieslings, celestial, prismatically
delineated fragrances. The palate is a drowning surge of solid stone. Then the fist-full of
tight little sugar-berries. After five minutes in the glass, there are UNBELIEVABLE aromatics.
Explosively tight and just infrared fruit. How does white wine get better than this? I bought
some immediately to send to Hans-Günter Schwarz at Müller-Catoir; “You GOTTA try this!”
It was the wine of the vintage for me. + + +
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PRINTABLE MERCHANDISING MATERIAL:
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