I look for Bründlmayer’s reds to be more forthcomingly fruity. They always smell lovely
but are sometimes cooler and more tannic than I prefer. He was sweet to let me cherry-
pick, and I really like this wine; it’s cool but not lean, just pleasantly light, with a
lovely balance of upper-register tones balanced by a subtle smokiness; it has sweet fruit
and clear outlines, and is both admirable and tasty.