|The 2004 Brut Cuvee Fiacre is 60% Chardonnay (from Chemin de Reims) and 40% Pinot Noir (from Les Orizeaux). Here it is the greater percentage of Chardonnay and the high content of sand in the vineyard that give the wine its slightly more polished, elegant personality. Finessed Chardonnay fruit blossoms beautifully on the broad shoulders of the Pinot, but it really is the Chardonnay that speaks most loudly here. The 2004 Fiacre impresses for its length, subtlety and overall finesse. This is a gorgeous wine from Chartogne-Taillet. Dosage is 6 grams per liter. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019.
Alexandre Chartogne is one of Champagne’s up and coming growers. Chartogne took over the family domaine in 2006. These wines were all made by Chartogne’s parents, although he naturally finished their elevage, including the disgorgements. Chartogne’s approach to viticulture and winemaking remains deeply influenced by the time he spent working under Anselme Selosse. Starting with 2007 there will be three Blanc de Blancs from separate single parcels in Merfy, a clear sign of the direction Chartogne is taking for the future. A Terry Theise Selection, imported by Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
- Wine Advocate