| June 2003
Here are some thoughts about the current state of "Vini Italiani" based on our recent 4-day Vinitaly visit...
Vintage 2002 initial thoughts - You are no doubt aware that this was the coolest and wettest growing season in a very long time in Piedmont and other regions of the north.
What you may not know is that it is an EXCELLENT vintage in the South! My motto after a couple days was "Go South Young Man".
Piedmont - 2002 weakest vintage since 94. Some producers will not release any Dolcetto, Barbera or Barolo but the saving grace is that those who do will make TINY quantities so we won’t have pressure to move boatloads of weak juice. This is very good news. In addition, most who will make Barolo will only make a small amount of Normale only. Very few producers will release any "cru" Barolos.
The problem with the 02 Dolcettos and Barberas is acid. Some are screaming, But there ARE exceptions. Boschis (who will only make Pianezzo) is good - he declassified the Sori San Martino and Vign dei Prey to make it. Pira, Seghesio, and Paitin are also very good and of course the usual suspects (Scavino, Sandrone, Clerico, etc) made worthy ones... Allessandria will have NO 02 Dolcetto at all. Neither will Revello and some of the other producers made a little but will not export (sell only to the local mkt)
But my overall advice to anyone is to buy up what remaining 01 Dolcettos and Barberas exist. That’s what we will do...
Same situation with the 2002 Barberas...One exception is 2002 Paitin Serraboella - it’s excellent!
1999 Barolos - 99 has evolved into a truly great vintage - a candidate for one of the best vintages of the 90s in my opinion. I know that’s saying a lot, but they have really taken on weight and have the voluptuousness of the 97s but with better grip and structure. They are more user-friendly than the 98s so they should have a positive reaction to tasting...
2001 Nebbiolo - This is a category that did not exist a few years ago (because all the Nebb was made into Barolo) but now that the mkt has softened, this is a real opportunity to market these "baby Barolos" at a fraction of the Barolo prices. Normally only produced in "off" vintages, these 2001s from an excellent vintage are some of the best values available in Pioedmont right now. There isn’t much though, so act quickly once the Piedmont DI offer comes out .
01 Barrique Barberas are VERY good too (my newest suggestion: DON’T call them Barberas!)
Tuscany - 02s are a mixed bag here but it was clearly there are definitely many worthy wines here. But production was also down (avg of 30-40%) and producers will de-classify to improve quality of the basic wines (example: MORI will only make Chianti - no Castelrotto)
Chianti etc - The good news is that the 2001s (as you know, a GREAT vintage throughout Tuscany) are bring released now - the Chianti Classicos are GREAT (Palazzino!, Le Cinciole, Riecine, and even the little Piazzano and Lucignano wines are all among the best they have ever been. I would encourage your customers to BUY these BIG and promote the vintage. Also, AMBRA made the best Carmignanos in years (as well a lovely ROSATO 2002 which we will be bringing in for summer was that the sound of Liz Willette smiling???)
2000 was a very HOT vintage in Tuscany and if the producers didn’t let the grapes get TOO ripe, they are excellent as well. PIAGGIA’s 2000 Carmignano Riserva, for example (being released now) is GREAT. (another 94 pter?) The 2000 Chianti Riservas are very good and, if you plan on selling loads of 2001 we will need support on the 00 Riservas too.
Brunello - Let the good times roll - the 98s are way better than I initially thought and the sneak preview of 99 was "hold onto your hat folks!" material....another 97??????? Of course you know the 2001 Rosso shortage sell whatever you can get.
Other Reds - Le Terrazze - His 2001 Rosso Conero is just excellent. Better than 2000! There will be no 2001 Sassi Neri because production was down and all that juice went into Chaos. Also, the Chaos 2001 and very rare "Visions of J" are about to be released.
White Wines - PLENTY of EXCELLENT 2002 whites! That was a relief. GINI’s 2002s are GREAT, Palazzone’s Orvietos also, Boccadigabbia’s Pinot Grigio 2002 (better hurry if you want - all bought up at the fair!), 2002 Vernaccias from both Fontaleoni and Le Calcianie both excellent etc
And don’t miss the whites from the South (Ferrara’s Greco di Tufo, Clelia Romano’s Fiano di Avellino, Caggiano’s "Fiagre", Cantine Taburno’s Falanghina etc were all the best I have ever tasted from them.
New Discoveries: We finally (!) have a Vermentino producer (Liz smiling again!) named Tarenzuela and the 02 is excellent. It’s not cheap but it’s very good. Another new discovery is KLOSTERHOF from Alto Adige (MS has a different nickname for this wine...ask him), an EXCELLENT 02 Pinot Grigio that Marco showed us at the fair for the first time. EVERY customer in attendance bought it on the spot. Pre-sell NOW to make your customers happy...
Vie di Romans 2001 wines are excellent as well (better than 2000).
Argentina - 2002 is a great vintage there and the Altos 02 follows suit. Best to date.
That’s it for now. Do you feel like you attended now???
Harmon
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