I think the image that most Americans have for France and French culture, is severely misguided. The average American easily thumbs his or her nose at all things French without even thinking about it – and most have never even visited the country! They mostly reinforce stereotypes out of ignorance. The image of the stodgy French waiter, the arrogant French attitude, the old traditions of a bygone era, etc, most Americans just don’t seem to have any use for these.

In the U.S., we tend to “poo-poo” classical traditions that were popular a generation ago or more, such as traditional French food, or even classically made French wine. Popular culture is all about what’s new and different – like fashion or fads. Don’t give me fois gras or escargot any more - they are so 1980! It’s the 21st century and what’s cool is molecularly-altered and engineered food! Chefs can transform olive oil and dried coconut into something that looks like pasta! How about freeze-dried ice cream! But these ill-conceived creations, once in your mouth, more often than not, are inedible! Who cares how they taste though, they’re so COOL.

And with wine, young drinkers often skip over classical French wines in favor of cool grapes from unproven appellations that nobody has ever heard of. It almost doesn’t matter how they taste, as long as you can impress your friends with something that is new and different, like Lagrein Dunkel from Italy, Txakolina from Spain, etc. The problem is, like most fashions or fads, unless these new things deliver quality and value, they will be very short lived. The very definition of “classical” means proven traditions that have longevity because they have delivered quality year after year, let alone generation after generation.

Yesterday, Michael, Clarke and I were heading to the Geneva airport after our quick jaunt to Burgundy, and we decided to make a detour to Beaujolais for lunch. Where else to go but Le Cep, the classical French restaurant in Fleurie that has never disappointed in all the years we have been coming to France. In fact, Michael estimates that since 1977, his first business trip to France, he has dined at Le Cep about 25 times! Me, I’ve only been four times. This amazing restaurant seems frozen in time. It is still owned by Chantal Chagny, the original owner, and while she has understandably aged a bit, the dining room looks exactly the way it did when it opened its doors in 1969. Sure, it has been repainted and refurbished over the years, but the look and feel is pleasantly yesteryear. And, in an era when most restaurant menus change at least monthly, lest they be labeled as “stodgy”, the menu at Le Cep has hardly changed in 40 years! Here you can have the best rendition of the classical Burgundian dishes, such as Les Grenouilles (frogs legs), Escargots (snails), Les Oeufs en Meurette (poached eggs and mushrooms in a rich wine sauce), Pigeonneau de Bresse (amazing pigeons farmed in the nearby Bresse region), Fois gras terrines that to this day are still hand made each week by Madame Chagny (and not coincidentally the best I’ve ever had). Desserts like stewed fruits in wine sauce and chocolate soufflés etc etc.

These dishes may seem “old-fashioned” to the uninitiated, but the way they are prepared here, they taste as fresh as the day they were invented. Flavors burst in your mouth and go perfectly with the well chosen wines of the Beaujolais region that surround the restaurant. Why are these dishes so good? Because they are created by a passionate chef, from the best possible ingredients, using proven recipes that have endured for hundreds of years.

Great wines from classical appellations of France, too, have pedigrees that have endured for hundreds of years. Great Burgundy, for example, made from grapes grown on the “golden slope” of the magnificent Cote d’Or, with terroir that has proven time and time again, to produce expressive Pinot Noirs unlike wines from anywhere else in the world. Of course, many Burgundies are expensive but there are plenty of genuine Burgundies (or wines with similar pedigree around the world) that are not expensive– for example, a good Bourgogne from a top producer will set you back about 20 bucks on a retail shelf. But the same phenomenon exists even with the humble and inexpensive Beaujolais. Every time I go to this incredibly region, I get depressed at how these wines, even though they are deliciously seductive, are no longer considered “cool” and the result is that the region has been incredibly depressed for the past decade or more…In my humble opinion, these classic wines ought to be treasured, not overlooked!

Today, especially with the economic crisis the world faces, it is easy to dismiss classic French wines and cuisine, as luxuries we can do without. However, we ignore them at our own collective peril. Because without support from customers, restaurants like Le Cep will cease to exist – and this would surely be a disaster for generations to come. By the way, Le Cep is NOT expensive – in fact, it must be the cheapest 2-star Michelin restaurant in the world! Prices seem like 1969 prices! The bill for all 3 of us, including wine, was probably the equal of one prix-fixe meal in a top Paris restaurant.

I recognize that classic things, whether they be food, wine or even music, are surely not always great. There are plenty of examples of classical French wines or restaurants, that are stodgy, poorly run and/or produce products that are not worthy of your hard earned money. But let’s not throw the babies out with the bath water. Just like anything, it’s all about having the best ingredients – be they grapes or goose livers - and then having skilled artisans – be they chef or winemakers – transform these ingredients into memorable experiences.

Our lunch at Le Cep in 2009 was just such an experience. I just hope the restaurant will be around in 2010 and beyond, so we can once again enjoy the pleasure. Meanwhile, my recommendation to you is that, next time you find yourself in Europe, high tail over to Fleurie and experience it yourself before it disappears forever.

HS