So OK, there's two Muscats lately, the almost-classic 2007 GC Pfersigberg
from Sorg, and the entirely freaky GC Brand 2003 from Boxler. Tonight I had
the dregs of the Sorg, and opened the Boxler.

So my palate was prepped by this insanely incisive, verbena-like wine, a
really gorgeous '07 where all the pieces fit. If you thought "2007",
"Muscat," and "Pfersigberg" you'd have ended up somewhere near this glass of
wine. Your palate-GPS is functioning. You made it.

I remember when I first tasted Boxler's '03 with Jean. "At first we thought
we'd just blend it away, but then we tasted it and thought, OK, why not;
it's not typical but maybe someone will like it." I myself bought a few
bottles because I thought "Maybe I'll need a Muscat with 33 grams/liter of
residual sugar....you never know."

So here it is, now, six years later.

The wine is literally amazing. It mingles each of its facets of personality
clearly and perfectly. The Brand spice, the Muscat cut, and most of all the
2003 corn-bread and beeswax, and when THESE things have ever been combined
in a single wine, I'll never know. The sweetness - or "sweetness" - is a
non-issue; the wine is balanced in itself. But what's loveliest about it is
just the thing that drives a certain kind of person crazy - it's
one-of-a-kind. Unpredictable, un-repeatable, strangely and beautifully and
merely itself.

To me this is wonderful. It's the reason to keep paying attention to wine,
as opposed to just enjoying it. A vintage, vineyard and person combined to
let this wine Be. It won't happen again, but it happened here. What can you
do if not applaud?