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  July, 2006 – Harmon’s Thoughts on France  
     
 

FYI the following note was given to each employee just prior to their recent trip to see the vineyards of France. Now that the trip is complete, I think these words ring true more than ever:

TO ALL TRAVELING TROOPS:

July 13, 2006

 

“France, the greatest wine producing nation in the world…no country comes close to matching France, either in setting demanding standards for its wine industry or in producing such a variety of consistently excellent wine. Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and the Rhone go without saying, but those famous regions are simply the most visible. From Jurançon in the southwest to Jura in the east, from Nantes on the Atlantic to Alsace on the German border, France makes wines that are endlessly compelling and should be endlessly inspiring.”

 

                                                                  Eric Asimov, NY Times, July 5, 2006

               

You are about to embark on a very special journey.

 

Some of you are stepping foot on French soil for the very first time. This is exciting stuff! I am sure the trip will meet (and hopefully exceed!) your expectations.

 

I remember my first visit to French wine country. It was a tour to see Kermit Lynch’s producers in 1991. I think Lynch and Lerner were on that trip with us! Tasting the 1990 red Burgundies out of barrel was a revelation! (you might have similar epiphanies about the 2005s!). I remember sampling French food for the first time and thinking, “so THIS is why the French have developed the reputation for haut cuisine!” And the cheese! And the desserts! And, oh yeah, the wines!!!!! (by the way, don’t expect to lose weight on this trip!)

 

Walking the vineyards and descending into the cellars of great producers for the first time CHANGES YOU. Prior to my first trip, yes, I was able to tell good wine from bad. And yes, I had read about different vineyard reputations and why some wines were better than others. But you cannot really grasp the relationship between the product and the place, until you stand on the soil where those grapes were grown, and meet the grower who toils every day of his or her life to create something special in that glass. That experience is something that is likely to change you forever.

 

Even though we may have lots of sun and warmth in July, please realize the weather in France is not at all like the fortunate growers in the new world (e.g.California or Australia), where good weather during the growing season (and especially harvest) is as reliable as the sun coming up every morning. Growers in France are constantly adapting to mother nature’s vagaries. These changes from year to year are what make each vintage something to appreciate, intellectualize and enjoy. It assures that French wines are never boring. The sheer variety of grape varietals and soil types, assure a great reward to those who are willing to invest the time to understanding and appreciating them.

 

Hopefully, this will happen to you in the next 10 days. And for you returning visitors, this experience will only underscore and remind you of what you love about France.

 

There is a reason why all wineries around the world try to measure up to French wine. Because it is the standard bearer. And rightfully so. Hopefully, you will come away from the trip understanding why that is.

 

Bon Voyage! Bon Degustation! And let “les bonne temps roulee!”

 

Fondly,

 

HS

 
 
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