The very best presents are the unexpected ones -- the ones that, at first, might make the recipient ask, "What were they thinking?" and then later say, "How very thoughtful." They're the kind of presents that are used every day, or that change someone's perspective. A few years ago, John's brother Kris, who likes electronic gadgets, sent us a gift that seemed extravagantly silly at first, but which we don't know how we ever lived without. It was a newfangled technology called TiVo. In that spirit, we have a gift suggestion for the person on your list who is either newly embarked on a wine journey or is a confirmed wine lover: a Riesling Auslese from Germany.

Sweet.

German.

Riesling.

Those three words strike fear in the hearts of many Americans, so we know you might be skeptical, and that your friend or loved one may be skeptical, too. That's why it's such a great present, because a good Auslese may forever change someone's view of sweet wines, of German wines and of Riesling wines. That would be a gift that would keep on giving.

Fine German wines are classified by ripeness, which generally equates to sweetness. Kabinett is the lightest and usually the driest you're most likely to see; Spätlese is next up the line; and then there is Auslese (pronounced something like owss-lay-zah), which is made from very ripe grapes. (You might sometimes see the word Trocken, which means the wine is dry regardless of its ripeness. As we've written before, Spätlese Trocken and even Auslese Trocken, both rare in the U.S., are a special treat, but let's save those for another holiday season. We'll also save the rare, expensive wines even further up the ripeness line: Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese.)

Too many people think German wines are simple, that Riesling is cloying and that sweet wines taste like candy. That's why it would be fun to change some minds with a good bottle of Auslese. But this isn't just a good present for novices. Even people like us who love wine don't buy Ausleses very often. There's always something trendier, something newer and perhaps something less expensive. Auslese is so special that it gets put into the dreaded category of "special occasion" wine, which means it's bought infrequently and opened rarely. So novices will discover a new friend and wine lovers will rediscover an old one. What could be better?

Auslese wines are hard to describe, and if you wonder why, think about how you'd try to describe a great soufflé to someone who has never had one. It's sweet yet ephemeral; it has texture but no real weight; it has mouth-filling flavors, but the flavors are like clouds that beguile your taste buds and then just leave a long memory behind. At their best, Ausleses have all sorts of tastes of tropical fruits and caramelized peaches, sometimes with a bit of luscious mouthfeel, but with abundant acids that make the whole package light on its feet. While many of these are delightful as aperitif or dessert wines, they also go beautifully with some dishes, especially pork and veal in cream sauces. Ausleses are also generally low in alcohol -- around 7.5% to 9%. At a time when so many wines seem like work to drink, with big tastes and even bigger alcohol, these are effortless.

Big Taste, Half Bottles

It's impossible to know what Riesling Auslese you might find on shelves because, while many are out there, all are made in limited quantities. To get a sense of what might be available, we bought a large sample from stores in California, Missouri, North Carolina, New Jersey and New York. We did not set a price limit, but most cost less than $40 for a regular-size bottle. Quite a few came in half bottles, which is a good idea because these are often so mouth-coating and luscious that a half bottle really is plenty for a night.

We tasted the wines in blind flights over several nights. We expected to have a delightful time with the tasting -- and we were not disappointed. They were filled with spices and a cornucopia of fruits -- pears, peaches, apricots, pineapples, green apples, lemons and limes. Some had a nicely floral nose while others smelled like apple pie. The tastes were generally nicely balanced between sweet and tart, with integrated flavors and, in most, long, mouth-coating finishes with just a hint of minerals. In the best -- and this is what makes them so special -- there was a clarity, a purity, a focus and sharpness that seemed to deliver all of the tastes in one well-conceived package directly to the pleasure points of our brains. The kicker is that these will be even better in a few years as they round out a bit and become even more complex and haunting.

In the index, you can see our favorites and get an idea what these taste like and approximately how much they cost. You will certainly see different ones at your store. Just pick one up and give it away this holiday season. Trust us. Your recipient will think of you with every sip and be very grateful for a very long time.